AmpSizerWhat is on every circuit in the panel?
Sizing one circuit takes a minute. Knowing what all forty of them add up to is what a schedule is for.
One circuit check a month
MonthlyOne thing a month worth measuring, testing or recalculating on a home electrical system — the part of sizing that happens after the install. No product pitches, and nothing that needs a live panel.
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How this works
What a panel schedule has to record
The five columns an inspector, an electrician and the next owner each need, and what a missing one costs.
| Column | Why it is there | If it is missing |
|---|---|---|
| Circuit number | Ties the label to the breaker | Nobody trusts any of the labels |
| What it feeds | The only thing anyone reads | The breaker gets found by trial and error |
| Load in amps or watts | Shows whether the circuit has room | Every addition is a guess |
| Breaker rating | Checks against the conductor | Undersized wire goes unnoticed |
| Conductor size | Proves the pairing is legal | A future change cannot be judged |
A panel with wrong labels is why people kill the whole house in an emergency instead of one circuit. It is the cheapest documentation in the building.
Frequently asked questions
Is the total the same as my service size?
No, and it will be much larger. Connected load adds up everything that could run; demand load applies the diversity factors of NEC Article 220 because nothing runs it all at once. A house totalling 300 amps of connected load routinely has a compliant 200 amp service. Use the dwelling load worksheet for the figure that decides the service.
Why record the conductor as well as the breaker?
Because the pairing is what makes the circuit legal, and it is the thing a future change breaks. A 20 amp breaker on 12 AWG is correct; the same breaker after somebody extends the circuit in 14 AWG is not, and only a schedule shows it.
How do I find what each breaker feeds?
Turn it off and walk the building. It is the only reliable method and it is the same exercise as labelling the panel properly. Plug-in meters are useful for the watts afterwards; nothing but switching it off tells you what is connected.